Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Rich, smoky nose with some tarriness, not baked but not exactly fresh. Medium-bodied and slight, with a slithery texture, distinct tannins, and a clear lack of fruit and acidity. 11

Stephen Browett: Medium to deep color with black fruit on the nose. Impressive depth here, this definitely has more than average weight. There is a solid core of cassis fruit nicely balanced by spice and peppery notes. This has the potential to age well and is one of the few wines in this flight that clearly needs a bit of time to develop. Serious and well made. 16

Michael Schuster: Brick-rimmed red; light, discreet, ripe-fruited nose; lively medium weight with a very firm, fairly dry tannin; fresh, crisp, ripe fruit, slightly fluid center; quite nice length across the palate, but relatively modest scope and medium, scented length. Tannins a bit intrusive. Will they ever harmonize? From 2010. It showed noticeably less well than at the Institute of Masters of Wine tasting a week earlier, where I scored it a point higher. 15.5