Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Black cherry nose, sustained by quite a bit of oak. Medium-bodied, a bit slack in texture, certainly concentrated, but the tannins are rugged and there is a distinct lack of acidity and zest. Solid but not a patch on Smith at its best. 14

Stephen Browett: Good deep color. Lots of sexy, toasty new oak on the nose. Exotic and creamy on the palate. A gorgeous wine with a lovely, smoky, tarry Graves character. Polished and seductive. A lovely, hedonistic wine that will give great pleasure from an early age thanks to the extra-ripe tannins and low acidity but will drink well for many years. 16.5

Michael Schuster: Dark red; a hint of greenness on the nose here; quite nicely balanced light to medium weight wine with the characteristically 2003 very dry, slightly pinched tannin and soft acidity; pleasant ripe fruit, limited aroma profile and complexity, lightly minerally, medium length. From 2012. 15