Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Very rich but balanced wine thanks to its fine acidity, impressively dense fruit, and long, pure finish. A classic. 18/18.5

Michael Schuster: Turbid mid-gold; dense, botrytis spicy, minerally; very rich and unctuously textured but with adequate acidity; intensely sweet, opulent, mouth-filling wine, almost too much of a good thing; but very satisfying if this is what you want; fine noble rot spice and very good length. A heavyweight nonetheless! 2012–25. 16.5