Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Splendidly honest in its composition; the core is taffeta-like and perfectly balanced. As usual, this is an absolutely impeccable Ausone, but this regularity makes the success of this vintage a little less exciting than that of Cheval Blanc and Pétrus. 19

Michael Schuster: Dense, closed, mineral-imbued black-cherry nose; beautifully cut, rich, vigorous, finely tannic wine—a first-rate, long-term balance. Firm-fleshed yet plush core, and here you really feel the texture of the best 2009s—generous and satiny, with great vitality, too. Classic, close-grained flavors: sweet, vividly fresh, very discreetly powerful, its limestone minerality subtle yet marked; packed with refined fruit, very aromatic, effortlessly purring length across the palate, with a seamlessly scented aftertaste of terrific length. An intense yet utterly effortless fruit presence from start to finish. Classic, fine, grand Ausone—not a stitch out of place. Long-term finesse; exhaustingly good. 2024–50+. 19/19.5