Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: The nose is floral and quite lively; the wine opens up with lots of substance and softness, but it doesn’t dazzle on the palate, with subtle length. ausone has delicious substance this year, in a very natural style. 19

Michael Schuster: restrained, oaky nose, with a gentle, fragrant, ripe red fruit, both dense and persistent; medium-full wine, firm in tannin, vivid in acidity, a firm long-term structure; a marked wild-strawberry sweetness of fruit, long across the palate and with excellent, scented length; power and delicacy combined, a sort of firmly chiseled finesse, with a long wait in hand. 2025–40. 17.5