Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: a wonderfully powerful and refined wine, showing better than any other wine at the primeur tastings. Firm but already fully integrated tannins: It’s hard to imagine a more voluptuous austerity or a more austere voluptuousness in a young wine! 19

Michael Schuster: Soft, fragrant, ripe- fruit-and-mineral nose, a touch new-wood cedary; effortlessly balanced wine of moderate concentration, but lovely overall harmony, with a firm, fine- grained tannin and freshly defining acidity, long and subtle to taste, gently ripe in flavor, gently mineral in aromas, a fine tenacity of flavor, all at a mezzo forte dynamic, with the firm tannin texture more apparent on the back palate, followed by a fine, sweet-fruited persistence. refined, harmonious, elegant Mouton, slender but complete. Firm texture suggests this will need 15 years. 2025–40. 18