Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: An impressive achievement, as always, with a note of cedar worthy of the best of St-Estèphe and a concentration that sets the bar for the appellation. 17

Michael Schuster: Ripe, as well as slightly austere, cabernet to smell; a fresh, finely tannic middleweight; a leaner style, but not austere or mean; slender, elegant, pure in fruit, fine-textured, with grace and good light length; a fine cru bourgeois-level bordeaux, if without the aromatic complexity and density of the best. certainly much finer than it used to be. 2017–25. 15.5