Andrew Jefford: Pale to mid-depth of gold. Very classical, pristine, dewy orchard-fruit aromas: There’s no impression in the aromatic profile that this is going to be anything other than a fruchtig style. On the palate, though, it is dry, mineral, precise, glittering. The fruit style is very fresh, apple-led, one of the more vivacious wines in this subregional bracket. Yet it’s remarkably harmonious, too—very difficult, for example, to pull the alcoholic warmth out of the wine as you analyze it, since it’s so well bonded to the fruit and to the minerality. Lovely fresh drinking, with plenty of edge and definition despite its pristine fruit. I’ve tasted this against the top-scoring wines from the warmer locations in Alsace and Austria, and it more than holds its own: a wonderful arc of aroma and flavor and finesse. Magnificent wine. 18.5

Andreas Larsson: The nose is very fragrant and refined, with a mineral notion and elegant fruit. The palate is close to dry, still light on its feet, with an invigorating freshness and white-peach flavors; light and soft but a truly long finish. 15.5

Stephan Reinhardt: Bright yet quite intense color. Lovely on the nose, floral and earthy-slaty (almost dusty), with a nice expression of ripe, small, and well-concentrated Riesling berries; there is a cool and aristocratic touch to this. Quite warm. Yeasty taste, complex and mineral, a little bit lighter, finer, and sweeter than [Selbach-Oster Schmitt Riesling Trocken Zeltinger Schlossberg Germany Mosel 2009] but in a similar direction. Precise, laser-like acidity. Firm and elegant, very precise expression, well balanced yet still yeasty. Less full-bodied than [Selbach-Oster Schmitt] but maybe more focused. Very salty and pure on the aftertaste. Lay down for at least five years. 17.5