Stephen Browett: Dark color, powerful wafts of leather, earth and spice on the nose. Gorgeously mouth-filling with spicy cassis. Great density and very sexy. A fabulous wine that has everything. Packed with roasted fruit and glycerine with an exotic edge. It will be hard to resist this decadent wine in its youth but it does, of course, have great aging potential. The new 1982—but better. 18

Michael Schuster: Black-red, narrow-rimmed; dense nose, marked by fine, cedary, new oak; concentrated, elegantly balanced, firmly tannic; toasty new oak clear behind the dark, ripe fruit on the palate, with real matter and minerality; long, generous, ripe without excess, complex and fine and with excellent, warmly spicy length. Long-term, but complete; a fine claret, a fine 2003. From 2018. 17.5+