Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Tasted at the château. With a little less body and depth than the Baron, the Comtesse appeals with its customary qualities of aromatic complexity and supple texture. Harmonious, precise, and racy, but less substantial than the very best. 17/17.5

Michael Schuster: Finely scented, perfumed nose; fresh, medium-full, finely tannic Pichon; sapid, mineral-backed ripe red fruit flavor, long and fine and complete in a slightly firmer, less fleshy style than usual. Will need, and reward, ten years wait. 2017–30. 16.5