Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Superb aromatic finesse, notes of citrus mingled with almost salty nuances that some might call mineral. Taut, refreshing, peerlessly elegant. 17.5

Michael Schuster: Pale; richly aromatic, a real density of fine scents to smell: minerality, guava, citrus zest, and fine oak cedar—impressive! Elegantly balanced, vital wine, with a notable concentration of aromas, rather than “fruit core” as such; long, fine, subtle, refreshing; a lovely, long, gentle resonance of flavor rather than a particular fat or density; classy and concentrated, long across the palate, and notably long to finish, with a particular emphasis on scent, that hallmark of the year! Juicy and fine at once, a particularly complete white SHL. 2012–20+. 16.5/17