Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Great volume on the palate, with rich syrup from botrytized fruit. Still young and a bit aggressive at first, but typical of the vintage and true to its ranking. Might deserve a higher score in a year’s time. 16

Michael Schuster: Orangey gold; nose quite oak-marked; a rich, concentrated wine with a marked, lively acidity; a very sweet, pure, mineral-backed flavor, clear botrytis-spice complexity; long and racy across the palate, and with excellent length. Taut, stylish, elegant Sigalas, very much in the style of its best wines. Lovely! 2014–30. 17.5/18+