Stephen Brook: Very reticent apple-and-pear nose, but the discretion is appealing after some of the bigger, super-ripe styles. Fresh and lean on the palate, nicely understated, with an appealing purity. As slinky as a Chanel skirt, with a quiet minerality. Not a wine that draws much attention to itself, but impeccably balanced and not so weighty as to be difficult with food. Sleek, stylish, and long. 17

Simon Larkin: Deep in hue; the aromas here are restrained, hinting at ripe exotic fruits. The palate seems quite inexpressive, with a marked rasp of acidity. This seems to lack some clarity and expression. With air, more juicy citrus fruit on show, though perhaps showing out of sorts. Slightly muffled expression. In terms of structure, there is a well-focused acidity and pleasing textural component—just not the expression that one would look for. Benefit of the doubt? 14

Andreas Larsson: Nice, pure, and opulent nose showing a plethora of tropical fruit—papaya, mango—and a characteristic spiciness. Very full on the palate, with broad fruit and a good deal of freshness; nicely spicy with a very long and rich aftertaste. Very Grüner—very potent. 18