Stephen Brook: Light gold. Muted stone-fruit nose. Very rich, broad, and concentrated, with remarkable depth of flavor and a stony, earthy tone that is surely soil-derived. A powerful wine, yet it seems balanced. There’s a grandeur here that is most impressive. Perhaps it is easier to admire than enjoy, but this has real minerality and is not too overtly alcoholic. The structure and the concentration seem more present than the fruit, but that’s no bad thing. Spicy, complex, and very long. 18.5

Simon Larkin: This has a certain Rieslingesque quality on show—leaner, with a more marked slaty quality. Yes, residual, but offset, with a pleasing textural quality, as well as good darting acidity. The fruit shows ripe citrus and greengage, with notes of herb and peppercorn. A far more lively style than most, with good length and persistence. 13

Andreas Larsson: A very dense and structured Grüner, with a cornucopia of tropical fruit; almonds and minerals on the palate, which is very broad and long, with a spicy finish. An opulent but very well-balanced example. 16.5