Stephen Brook: Fresh, charming nose, with mouthwatering citric fruit—quite Germanic in aromas. Fairly rich but a touch soft, easygoing, not much grip here. This is at odds with the nose, which has more precision. Pleasant but rather dull, with a light phenolic character on the finish. 13.5

Simon Larkin: Ripe, sherbetty, apricot and Cox’s apple aromas. Shows good weight and a powerful, slaty, mineral quality. This is a rich style, with good rasping acidity and some notable alcoholic warmth to the finish. Just a little too headstrong, perhaps. A bit flatter than anticipated. 13

Andreas Larsson: Aromatic and youthful; a bit on the young side, with hints of green apple and citrus. Firm and zesty; not really complex, but with nice purity and freshness. 12.5