Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Colossal structure, the tannins in proportion to the wine; slightly less immediately refined than Lafite, immense and rigorous, still very, very young; in short, this is exactly what we love and would expect from Latour in this exceptional vintage. But who in “old Europe” will be able to afford it? 19.5

Michael Schuster: Very mineral, very dense on the nose; rich, ample, broad-shouldered, yet so finely cut, with a super-fine tannin of wonderful texture and a fresh acidity; luxuriously compact wine; the classic “dry yet fully ripe” flavors of the best claret, packed with mineral aromas, deep, ripe, black-fruit sweet, baritone sonorous, an essence of Pauillac, but without a hint of excess. Long and resonant, with both fruit and aromas effortlessly saturating the palate—such a light touch for such power—plush and fine, density without force, a remarkable, persistent, inner energy and terrific length. A perfect, effortlessly harmonious performance: a very great Latour. More density and matter than ’82, for example. Magnificent, a clear candidate for perfection. 2022–50. 20