Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: There is no doubt that this is the best wine they’ve made in the past 50 years, and it’s one of the chefs d’oeuvres of the vintage: its harmonious power and refined fragrance and the taffeta-like quality of the tannins can serve as an example for Cabernet Sauvignons the world over. 19.5

Michael Schuster: I was disappointed in this the first time around (and the wine was guaranteed as its final assembly) so retasted a week later. Very mineral to smell; gentle, persistent, ripe fruit; elegantly concentrated middleweight wine, harmonious and very finely balanced, with a delicately dry tannin and fresh acidity; sweet fruit and subtle minerality in flavor, restrained, gentlemanly, poised, and complex, with the usual quiet class and very refined tannin texture; long in the mouth, with a prolonged fruit and aroma persistence. A quiet power in effect and a lovely, warm, fragrantly sweet length. Will keep for ages but likely to be accessible relatively early. Not a showy opulence and not as rich as many—everything sotto voce—but all the text is there; a persistent and complete presence. 2018–35+. 17.5/18