Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Super-smooth, amazingly generous length on the palate; the grapes have a Muscat-like quality (maybe due to the amount of Sauvignon Gris). Truly unique in its style—magnificent! 18

Michael Schuster: Mute nose, lightly grapefruity; understated, moderately concentrated wine, with a nice vigor behind the ripe fruit; quite generous for the year; dry, juicy, clear minerality, nicely sustained across the palate and with good length. Stylish, complex, elegant cru classé white Graves, very good for the vintage. Early pleasure, but the excellent acidity should allow it to develop for a decade at least. 2012–20. 16.5/17