Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: The long-awaited return to the top of the appellation; remarkable texture, long, complex, and distinguished. 18

Michael Schuster: Inky purple; dense, mineral, and ripe black-fruit nose; a rather tannic and muscular interpretation of the terroir; quite concentrated, with its ripe fruit core and gentle freshness somewhat dominated by its tannic sinew; good, light, scented length. A very late harvest here, the Cabernets finishing on October 24. And you taste the alcoholic warmth, as well as the sweet ripeness, a touch hot and Right Bank in character. The finesse of the terroir is there, and there is a fine, delicate fruit, too, but I think the structure will always dominate somewhat. 2020–30? 15.5/16?