Stephen Brook: Opaque red. Rich, smoky nose, some torrefaction but also a lot of Oriental spice to give it lift. Rich and concentrated, very fleshy and opulent—a hedonistic style but with excellent balance and no lack of zest and drive. There’s real depth and density of fruit here, and no overripeness or excessive extraction. Excellent length. A winner. 18

Andrew Jefford: Full black-purple; beginning to become translucent. Warm, complex, resonant, and allusive, within the bracket of a slightly warm, jammy style. Attractive. Very intense, lively, and fresh, with lots of sweet fruits. Lacks tannic substance, but that’s not a bad strategy for the vintage. A hint of chocolate (unusual this year) and a touch tart at the end, as the incipient acidity of the year makes itself felt. 14