Alison Buchanan: Pale, glittering gold, this has little to offer on the nose—very restrained with vague hints of stone and orchard fruit and crushed stone minerality. Rich, full, clean, and ripe. Luscious fruit, Well made but could use a little more focus—but not through added acidity, since its freshness is already rather marked. 16

Stephen Brook: Discreet oaky nose, with a touch of stewed apricot. Fresh attack, ample concentration, lively acidity, giving a brightness that one hopes to find from Russian River. Oak kept in check. There’s some elegance and flair here, but it does lack persistence and depth. 15.5

Oz Clarke: Nice green-gold. Full, fresh, modern, apple, lemon-curd, and yeast-lees nose. Pleasant, balanced, easy. This is attractive, gently satisfying. Some mildly toffeed oak, some decent gentle apple-sauce fruit and lemony acid. But I expected a brighter, zestier style from the nose. 14.5