Alison Buchanan: Yellow-gold in color, this has rather unexpected herbaceous character on the nose. This opens up to reveal more characteristic toasted notes. The palate has a lovely texture and good varietal fruit. Well made and rather fine. 16

Stephen Brook: Evolved nose, toasty, honeyed, all the stops pulled out. Soft attack, broad and peachy, voluptuous but heavy-handed, with oak marking the finish. Bruised-apple flavors and an overall flabbiness I could do without. 13

Oz Clarke: Quite full yet fresh straw gold. Not bad. Full yet restrained. Fair mix of dry, full apple and wild nutty weight—and fair acid. Good wine that hasn’t attempted to push the envelope very far. 15.5