Alison Buchanan: Rich old gold in color, this is a trifle tiring on the nose—butterscotch, warm brioche, and vanilla cream to the fore. The palate echoes the nose, with a rich texture and seductively ripe fruit. Some refreshment but pretty hefty on the oak front. Winemaker’s wine, perhaps—huge. 13

Stephen Brook: Dumb but evidently ripe nose; quite oaky. Medium-bodied and rather slack, lacking concentration and bite. A routine effort, with decent stone-fruit character and light acidity a pretty apricot finish, but without depth or personality. Fades fast. 13

Oz Clarke: Quite full gold. Pleasant but caramelly nose: hint of polished wood. Big, rich, hazelnutty, viscous—and yet it’s fresh. I haven’t had a Chardie like this for a while, and it isn’t my favorite style, but this is a good example: It’s well balanced in its lush-hipped way, though I can’t see myself drinking more than a glass or so. It sort of reminds me of slightly burned rice pudding. 14