Essi Avellan: Deep golden color. Rich, sweet, toasty nose of mocha and pastry shop. Developing soft palate with plenty of fruit but also freshness. Quite concentrated structure, and has good length. Fine mousse and silky, juicy texture. Drinking perfectly today and over the next 7–10 years. 18.5

Michael Edwards: Fine, luminous gold, slight tone of vigorous green; fine, classy nose, preserved freshness and golden maturity, discreetly autolytic; sprightly, proper tension sustains mature fruit, complexity, and vinosity. Exceptional. 18

Tom Stevenson: Seductive, toasty-infused aromas, beautifully proportioned, precisely tuned acidity. This is one of those Champagnes you love to have in your cellar because it moves so slowly, yet every time you open a bottle, you notice subtle differences. 19