Tom Stevenson: 48% Pinot Noir, 52% Chardonnay; disgorged 2010; dosage <7g. This vintage is slightly lower than average in acidity, but compensates with an excellent pH, which is at least as important from a mouthfeel perspective. The Pinot Noir dominates and this accounts for the small emphasis on Chardonnay, which effectively redressed the illusion of Dom Pérignon’s seamless varietal balance. There was a risk of overripeness on the Chardonnay due to water stress, making the late rains important at the end of the maturation period. Nevertheless, passerillage reduced the yield in some vineyards by up to 40 percent, resulting in the highest natural alcohol level since 1990, which was itself the highest since 1959. This is without doubt a top Dom Pérignon vintage; the finesse sings out from the very start and it has a captivating sweetness on the finish that comes from the passerillage, not the dosage. This vintage is ideally suited to the Oenothèque regime and will make many fascinating releases in the future.