Tom Stevenson: 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay; disgorged 2008; dosage <5g. One of the greatest vintages of the 20th century, 1996 did indeed produce some truly great Champagnes, but it has also turned out some unmitigated disasters. The 1996s have the highest ratio of acid to alcohol in Champagne’s history. The French marvel about its 10:10 ratio, referring to the 10 grams of total acidity despite its 10% plus of potential alcohol—and non-French minds need to convert the 10 grams of acidity expressed as sulfuric into 15.4 grams expressed as tartaric to appreciate fully just how acidic this year really was. Although the grapes were sugar-rich, they also possessed the highest proportion of malic acidity on record, and in view of the failure rate, the question remains, were they actually ripe? Geoffroy avoided the oxidatively prone hyper-concentrated Pinot Noir that ruined so many 1996s to produce a Dom Pérignon of beauty and grace, with hints of gun-smoke that will one day evolve into a delightfully complex range of toast-infused aromas. A Champagne of great quality, great promise, and great longevity, this is one 1996 that will stay the course.