Tom Stevenson: 48% Pinot Noir, 52% Chardonnay; disgorged 2006; dosage <5g. By the time of the masterclass, Dom Pérignon 1996 had established itself as the best of that vintage by miles. Other 1996s might challenge it in the future, but at that moment, nothing could touch it—so it was going to be fascinating to taste the 1995 and 1996 sideby- side. Surely the 1996 would trounce its little brother? But no, the 1995 was clearly the winner: so impeccably balanced, with mouthwatering, juicy fruit stretching off into the distance. This starts with red fruits and ends with juicy-ripe peaches, all bound together by the silkiest of mousses. Glorious!