Michael Edwards: More vigor and punch, racy Chardonnay in the driving seat. Long, with a fine attack— for crustaceans, especially oysters 17

Simon Field: Spring flowers on the nose, allied to chalk and hints of dried fruit. Palate has precise linear acidity, precision, and cerebral regality on the finish 17.5

Tom Stevenson: Rich and classy, this is really tip-top Champagne, à point yet capable of gliding along at this peak of perfection for a year or two before a long, slow, and graceful descent 18.5