Michael Schuster: (bottled 2009) Bright tawny; fine caramel and smoke bouquet, with just a hint of “wood”; rich and beautifully balanced middleweight Malmsey with a fine, fresh acidity; sweet, pure, silky textured, caramel and lemon-zest flavor, long and graceful, with lovely length; gently scented, complete, remarkably mature at a quarter of a century. Not a “grand” expression of the grape but a particularly refined one, almost delicate in style. Drink now and for decades to come. 17.5