Michael Schuster: (Grabham; bottled 1900, rebottled 1986) Mid-tawny color; fragrant nose, with the finesse and class of a great old Cognac, fully mature yet so fresh. A gently heady, complex, and glass-filling blend of subtle caramel and citrus zest, above all. Perfectly balanced wine, gently concentrated, still with a vital but perfectly absorbed acidity; long, vivid, exciting, medium-dry to medium-sweet flavor; smooth, prolonged, and racy to taste, full of subtlety and fragrance and with an extraordinary succulence for its age. Enormous tenacity of taste across the palate and with a great, mouth-fillingly scented aftertaste. Complete, harmonious, and refined—a flawlessly magnificent old Verdelho. Wonderful meditation wine. Delicate, complete, feminine, gloriously subtle and scented, and remarkably fresh given its age and its sojourn of nearly eight decades in cask plus a further century in bottle! A rare, remarkable, beautiful treat. 20