AJ | Deep rich walnut. Attractive sweet soft tobacco-y wine. The walnut tree and the smoky countryside beyond. Ample generous, tangy sweetness, and lots of smoky countryside here. The magical Madeira acidity keeps the wine vibrant and alert, though it is so vibrant and attacking that I have to wonder, almost, if it is real or if it has been 'helped' on the way. But we should remember that almost all fruit on Madeira is picked "unripe" and that is a reason (in the finest vintage wines) for the its extraordinary longevity. This is a boisterous, exuberant and exciting 10 year old, and a very good example of this category. It's not the subtlest wine in the tasting, but it isn't meant to be, either. Drink Dates: 2025 - 2030. 88
SF | Mahogany colour, with a modest rim. The nose is youthful, hardly surprising in this company, and recalls dates, fig, raison and Autumnal leaves. The acidity on the palate cuts though everything, which is both slightly off-putting and yet indicative of a potential to evolve over the longer erm. There is power and concentration here and the rsidal sugar will act as a preservative for as long as required; a little young now therefore.. Drink Dates: 2027 - 2040. 90
RM | Mid-mahogany hue with a green tinged amber rim; the characteristically earthy-raisiny aromas of modern malmsey and the soft, sweet slightly singed raisiny flavours to match with gentle acidity, rich and satisfying overall if a little simple in this company. Drink Dates: 2025 - 2035. 89