Jesús Barquín: Younger-looking color, with slightly less brick-hued rim. Aniseed and balsamic notes are subtle initially—less prominent than in later vintages—but take on greater weight on the palate, which is surprisingly fruit-driven. Fresh, long, balanced—a great wine. 18

Simon Field: Color holding up impressively, nose of soot, iron, and a hint of charcuterie. Palate monolithic, assertive, technically bereft of fault, but slightly anonymous and a shade foursquare. No doubting the winemaking skill here, but he/she has almost refined Rioja out of existence, pace Joyce. 16.5

Jancis Robinson: Youthful-looking dark crimson. There’s a lot more fruit here than in most 1970 Bordeaux! This is a good, well-made red wine, halfway between Rioja and Bordeaux (though much fruitier than Madiran). Slightly spooky for its lack of geographical ties but a very good drink that anyone would like. At this stage, they didn’t have cellar or vineyards! Drink 1980–2016. 18