Jesús Barquín: Very deep color, youthful looking. Aniseed, fennel, balsamic; a fairly atypical profile for old Rioja. Monolithic. Better than the 1975, it remains youthful but, in my opinion, lacks the necessary complexity to stand up to the best wines in this tasting. 15.5

Simon Field: Powerful color, assertive, dense with hints of soot and peat. Not typical Rioja but exceptionally well preserved. Clearly the winemaker/cosmetic surgeon employed here knows/knew what he is/was doing. 15.5

Jancis Robinson: Very polished crimson. Fragile nose. Very harsh on the palate. Aggressive. It’s a well-made and well-preserved red wine rather than a typical Rioja. Drying out on the finish. Drink 1983–95. 16