Jesús Barquín: Creamy notes and some hints of oxidation in the nose. The palate is more expressive, very clean within the evolved profile. Lean but long with a persistent, fresh, even cheerful finish. 15.5

Simon Field: Garnet color with an almost luminous rim; nose just a touch caramelized. On the palate, acidity holds the structure together with panache. Slightly faded glory but plenty of dignity and charm. Notes of game and undergrowth. 15.5

Jancis Robinson: Relatively deep ruby, with pale orange rim. Well-melded nose with less obviously American-oak influence than some—drier. Hint of mint. Very firm, with wonderfully fresh acidity. Really quite noble and interesting. Real delicacy. Seems in its prime! Very complete, with just a little dustiness. Drink 1990–2020. 18