Essi Avellan: Deep golden color. Lovely nose of sweet toastiness, vanilla, and coffee. Wide, round, and velvety on the fresh, lively palate. Fine mousse. Long and compact, with all the pieces in place. 17.5

Simon Field: Foursquare, rather muscular nose; the mouthfeel is equally assertive; citric notes allied to chalk and stone fruit; with a few minutes in the glass, secondary aromas of fig and dried fruit invade the stage and insure a happy denouement. 17.5

Tom Stevenson: A different tasting for a different magazine, but I have to make the same point for the second time in three days: what a difference proper post-disgorgement aging makes to the quality of the wine. Beautifully refined Pinot fruit. Delicious yet classy. 18.5