Essi Avellan: Deep lemon. Soft, fruit-forward, appley nose, with a little pastry. Sharp and austere on the palate. Not a charmer. 15

Simon Field: An orchard-fruit nose, with hints of tobacco and baking spice, then a surprisingly forward palate, with bright acidity and a finely chiseled stone-fruit mid-palate. Long and resonant—a beacon to the personality of the vintage. 16

Tom Stevenson: fine, floral finesse, with typically lean fruit outlined by crisp acidity. This has excellent, possibly great aspirations and might achieve them with a few years’ cellarage. 18