Stephen Brook: Gold. Toasty nose, with some smoky oak, as well as apricot-and-apple-compote aromas. Quite soft on the attack, silky without being voluptuous, and refreshed by good acidity. Citric on the mid-palate. Pleasant but a bit lackluster. Lacks drive and seems simple overall. 14

Margaret Rand: Well-balanced, roasted confit fruit, pretty complex, and very long. An individual wine, detailed, precise, and vivid. Lovely minerality: a characterful wine that demands attention. There’s great quality here, and it’s very elegant and long. There’s nothing flashy, just great concentration and attention to detail—very fine wine. 19

Michael Schuster: Mature mid-gold; wax, honey, coconutty oak; concentrated middleweight with a nicely defining fresh acidity; intensely sweet, just, quite complex, nice length in the mouth, nice length to finish; good rather than fine. Now to 2020. 15.5