Stephen Brook: Medium gold, looking very evolved for 2007. Hefty marmalade-and-barley-sugar nose—voluptuous but also a bit alarming in such a young wine. Rich and close to viscous, with good weight of fruit and considerable power and bite. Highly concentrated and assertive, with flavors of oranges and barley sugar; a dramatic wine with presence and persistence. It may not be especially elegant, but the richness, texture, power, and complexity are impressive. 18

Margaret Rand: Dark color. Oxidized, burned palate, coarse and unpleasant. There’s a note of burned plastic, which is horrid. The oak is quite dominant, and the wine is very concentrated, but I really don’t like that bitter, burned-plastic note. Without that, it would be all right—evolved but concentrated. 11

Michael Schuster: Mature orange-gold; mature, evolved wax, orange marmalade and new oak blend to smell. A little “hard.” Rich, concentrated, vigorous wine; intensely sweet, with a vital acidity behind the sugar, unctuous in texture, intense in flavor, a little hard in texture. Long across the palate, and long to finish, too, but a very slight “hardness” on the palate mirrors that on the nose at the moment. Very good,if lacking a point in finesse? Good now, with the structure to last for decades. 16.5