Stephen Brook: Straw. Dumb nose, inexpressive. Soft, plump, a bit flat and dull. It’s one-dimensional, with no complexity, but is redeemed by decent acidity. 14

Margaret Rand: Earthy, slightly coarse, little elegance. 10

Michael Schuster: Mid-gold; very faintly grubby to smell: wet wool, old wood. Moderately concentrated wine, medium-sweet in the context; adequate acidity; pleasant, straightforward flavor; short to medium length. Lackluster for the year. Drink. Second half-bottle paler, a little fresher, but not a huge difference. 13.5