Andrew Jefford: Pale gold in color. Soft, delicately lactic scents; a little squeeze of lemon juice; calm, almost placid aromatic profile, but not unattractive. Twenty minutes in the glass sees this ruffle up into something enticing, though the oak becomes more apparent at that point than at first. Quite an acidic palate, but this is presumably the taste of a cool place; not the jerky, raw edge of adjustment. Chalky textures; a sense of stone afterward. Genuinely Chablisien, cool-climate Chardonnay; you’d want it with a bit of fish or a creamy oyster, but it’s great to see aesthetic breadth of this order. I feel it may be a little hard by the third glass, and there is something a little sherbet-like in the acidity, rather than the ideal fruit saturation one hopes to find there. There’s also a jonquil note that shows up in too many cool-climate Australian Chardonnays. But this grape variety unquestionably belongs in this location, and I can’t think of many southern-hemisphere Chardonnays with quite this much natural incision and panache. Very good wine, in sum. 16

Jancis Robinson: Very pale. Appetizing nose, with just a hint of leesiness. Lemon cream and lovely texture, though just a tad simple. Very high acidity (for Australia, not Burgundy). Sprightly. Not that long. Drink 2012–15. 17

Anthony Rose: Pale, cool, fresh honeydew melon and apple aromas, with a savory hint of yeast lees, buttered nut oak; this is spritz-fresh and youthfully fruity, with fine freshness and intensity of flavor allied to a distinctly mouthwatering citrus-zesty fruitiness that’s crisp, clean, and dry; showing just a subtle hint of nutty oak and a cool-climate mineral element behind the fruit to add a degree of complexity. The excellent, refreshing, cool-climate typicity, balance, and intensity really zings in the mouth and is likely to develop further complexity over time. 18.5