Andrew Jefford: Clear, though a deep tawny-walnut brilliance shines out. Very cask-influenced, suddenly; very burnished; powerful, searching, almost disconcerting laser-beam aromas that slice their way up your nose, through the olfactory bulb and right into the brain itself. Vanilla, but above all the attractive-repellent scent of rue. These notes are quite obvious, but that adds drama. Not perfect alcohol integration; there’s a nip in the nose if you tug. Surely heat, as well as age, has played a role here? On the palate, this is notably richer and more caramel than anything we have tasted thus far; thick and carpet-like on the tongue, with a salty edge; and there’s driving acidity, as well. There is none of the easy charm and poise of, for example, [Taylor’s 20 Year Old Tawny Port]; it’s a much fiercer beast, and perhaps harder to sip. But you have to admire its force of character and purposefulness 17

Richard Mayson: Another true tawny in appearance, with an orange glint to the rim. More than hightoned on the nose: VA overpowers the underlying dried-fruit character. Intensely sweet, almost to the point of cloying. Obviously a very old wine, with lovely weight and texture, but this lacks poise and elegance, especially on the finish, where a hint of that casky character reappears. A curiosity to respect rather than admire, I fear. Very difficult to put a mark to as a result! 14 Jancis Robinson: Mid-orangey tawny. Woody nose. Syrupy start. Then acid and no tannin to speak of. Obviously long-aged in wood, but not all the wood seems to have been top quality, alas. Drink 2000–01 16