Andrew Jefford: Very pale gold—more a silver, in truth. Taut, tight, restrained, yet there’s a sense of promise here, a sense of aromatic power lurking, just waiting for the key of time to turn in the lock. Twenty minutes in the glass, indeed, unlocks a lot of that promise: You then get a sense of crushed-ivy-leaf, dark-forest intrigue. It’s slightly more savory and less purely citric than its predecessors in our cool-to-warm journey. On the palate, it is intense, edgy, vinous, ripely green, sappy, unapologetically cool, yet naturally articulated, packed with the edgy ripeness of its place, yet ripe nonetheless. And very gastronomic—no serious wine list should skip Australian Chardonnays like this, and the vineyard location should be all over the label. The more I sip, the more I like it, though it does need food. 16.5

Jancis Robinson: Very pale. Discreet but intriguing and concentrated nose. Marked acidity but not too thin (though it is the most anorexic so far). Augurs well for the future. Still quite chewy, but very refreshing and linear. Well done for getting something so lissom from the Australian climate. Drink 2012–15. 16.5

Anthony Rose: Pale in color; just a little neutral on the nose, though attractively fresh. There’s quite a strong immediate prickle of carbon dioxide and a hit of lemony acidity on the front palate, with a burst of citrussy fruitiness zestily expanding in the mouth. A seamless, intensely fruity, and well-crafted, subtle Chardonnay, with a zestily refreshing dry finish to it. 16.5