Andrew Jefford: Clear black-red. This is a very vivid, warm, sweet-fruited incarnation of Pinot, with the grapes blow-dried to the far edge of ripeness: glowing but rather fleshless strawberry fruits. On the palate, the wine is warm, lush, tangy, concentrated, but dry; the finish is taut and slightly grimacing, with all the flesh gone by then. Once again, either the vintage has proved an almost insurmountable challenge, or you have to wonder if this is really the right site for this variety. It is recognizably Pinot and a concentrated, penetrating wine, but the grace and flesh one hopes for in Pinot haven’t quite made it to the party. Australia? 13

Anthony Rose: Good youthful color, and complex, classic, enticingly bright Pinot raspberry-and-rhubarb fragrance. Intense and concentrated Pinot Noir fruit, with lovely depth of flavor and character, showing intense fraise du bois, mulberry, and raspberry fruitiness. Beautifully integrated oak, a fine silky feel to the tannins, and a brightness of voluptuously juicy red-berry fruits, whose attractive balance brings a natural “sense of place” feel to the wine. New Zealand. 18.5

Joanna Simon: Deepish and bright color. Very fresh and fragrant aromas: cherries and roses. Intense, fresh, pure palate, with fruit so fresh, sweet, and youthful it still has crunch. But developing complexity, too, with a mineral saltiness and supple, silky texture around a proper backbone. Impressive. New Zealand? 17