Essi Avellan: Deep golden color. Nuanced fruity nose of French pastry, confectionery, vanilla, and ripe apple. Nicely energetic palate, with vibrant but fine mousse, juicy texture, and a long, fruity length. Appealing, but with a good degree of personality and depth. Drinking now but still on its way up for the next few years. 18

Michael Edwards: Lemon-yellow with gold glints; a nice autolytic, developed character on both nose and palate. Balance, harmony, and class. 17

Tom Stevenson: Classy Champagne, light and youthful in taste, with a lovely light touch of slow-developing toastiness on the nose and finish. Great acids. 18.5