Essi Avellan: Deep golden color with a browning hue to it. Strange, aged floral-waxy nose. Full-on, rich, fatty palate. Concentrated and long but low on finesse. Getting old. 15

Simon Field: Developed color with a hint of amber; then a nose that has elements of Marmite and last week’s baking. On the palate, there is disharmony and surprisingly raw acidity. The second bottle is half a point better, just... 14.5

Tom Stevenson: Medium gold color, oxidative aromas, scarce and ribby fruit, short finish. Second bottle worse, bitter even. 9 (29 months post disgorgement, tasted 2014; 12.5%; 3g/l dosage; 13mg/l total SO2)