Essi Avellan: Deep golden color with a brown hue. Distinct, aged, old-wine nose, low on fruit. Floral with dried-fruit and earthy notes. Tiring on the palate, too, with little fully mature fruit left. Still some concentration and acidity but only remains of what it once used to be. 15

Simon Field: Very fine mousse, very subtle color and very impressive truffley nose. The sensation in the mouth does little to challenge these compliments, though the style is vinous, smoky, and decidedly mature. Not even a venal sin for a wine of this age, I dare to suggest. 17.5

Tom Stevenson: Deep gold color with, possibly, mercaptan or DMDS aromas on the nose, an acidic palate, and a slightly bitter finish. Lacks fruit. 10 (6 months post disgorgement, tasted 2014; 12.5%; 3g/l dosage; 13mg/l total SO2)