Essi Avellan: Deep onion-skin color. Elegant, toasty nose of red cherry, confectionery, leather, and floral notes. Fascinating nose, with lots of layers. Quite youthful on the mineral palate, with lovely acidic spine and elegant lightness of overall impression. Fine mousse and very mild tannic presence. Drinking finely but still has a long way to go due to the underlying fruit intensity and backbone. Elegant, balanced, and with plenty of character. 19

Michael Edwards: Russet tones to this rosé, more winey than many Champenois styles. There’s a certain bonbon fruitiness, checked by good acidity to stop it tasting cloying. A good positive mouthfeel, little red fruits and a big palate presence that demands food—very good with charcuterie, terrines, and cold cuts of game. 17

Tom Stevenson: A lovely peach-cum-pale-salmon color that does not give away its 12–13 years of age. Can you imagine how a Non-Vintage rosé of that age would look? Orange! Quite often you need a black glass to taste a rosé objectively (often it’s no different than a straight brut), since the color influences our descriptors, often of red fruits. But this Champagne has developed not so much in a fruit-driven but in a vinous-fruit-driven way. There are red fruits, but citrus, too, and cream. Really quite yummy! 16.5