Essi Avellan: Deep lemon-gold color. Soft, somewhat muted nose of flowers, bread, and apple. Round and ripe on the rich palate, which does not have much spine but more muscle. Good concentration and energy. Very good but not outstanding. Will drink well from now until 2020. 17.5

Michael Edwards: Lemon gold; sweet, ripe fruit, perhaps a moderate dosage detectable on the nose; better on the palate: generous fruit, elegant acidity, without being a blockbuster. 17

Tom Stevenson: A Chablisienne minerality, very fresh and young. Not great classic Champagne but Champagne that makes a statement. 17