Essi Avellan: Deep golden color, with a peachy hue. Overt, round, red-fruit nose. Wax, honey, and apple, with brioche nuances. Fruity and ripe, with maturing characteristics. Lacks freshness and spine. Will not improve but will keep for the next 3–4 years. 15.5

Michael Edwards: Another classy bottle but less concentrated, fine, and dashing than its stablemate. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Absolutely classic Vintage Champagne. Has richness, balance, a lovely mousse, and finesse. A beautiful Champagne. 18