Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemony color. Delicate nose of flowers, toffee, and cream. Piercingly acidic palate, with not enough fruity richness to back it up. Vibrant and medium-bodied, but too tart. 15

Michael Edwards: Lemon-gold; fine, citrus-led green Chardonnay fruit, ripe but sprightly. Good definition and core on the mid-palate. Decent length. 16

Tom Stevenson: Recent disgorgement. Very high acids; needs time on second cork to mellow. Capable of impressive complexity. 16.5